Twenty Seven carriages and two locomotives on a fifty hour trans-continental roll. That was us on The Ghan last Wednesday to Friday from Darwin at the tropical top of Australia all the way down to Adelaide on the Southern Ocean.
Two days and change of steady rolling is ample time to demonstrate the continental scale of Australia, but emptying your head and just gazing out the picture window in rhythm with the rails gets you to the same realization. Torrid at the top, outside Darwin fierce heat fairly radiates from the almost jungly ground cover, and the road hugs the track for the better part of the day, like if the two were separated, one or the other just might not make it.
They break the trip with a stop at the town of Katherine. The Ghan puts on several excursions around Katherine for the four hour stop, or you can simply remain on board.
The main attraction out this way is the Katherine River Gorge, which is owned by the local Jawoyn Aboriginal
people. As soon as they'd secured their legal native rights to the land they leased back management rights to the government, and now it's jointly managed with the Parks and Wildlife Commission of
the Northern Territory.
Were it not for The Ghan, you'd need to make the (relatively) short hop 314 kilometres (195 miles) south from Darwin along the Stuart Highway to the town of Katherine, then a further 29 kilometers out to see the Gorge. Last Wednesday it was completely bloody still and furiously hot. It's an austere, stark kind of place, and beautiful nonetheless. See here, here and here.
Before dark, and once the Ghan lumbered off again it was time to convene for dinner. The Ghan is marketed as one of the world's great train journeys, but the food's not over-elaborately presented, which, to us, is good. One thing for Australians, there's not a stuffy one in the lot, and dress was full casual - totally unlike the ostentation found in luxury trains' dining cars all around the world.